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阴雨中的圣地亚哥

想到南加州圣地亚哥,永远是阳光灿烂的景象。怎么知道好不容易去了一个周末,却阴雨连连…

有天午饭回来路上突然提到圣地亚哥,热爱旅行又热心折腾的同事立刻开始组织非官方小组旅行,三星期后大半个组的人就登上了去南加州的飞机。

day 0
四个同事一起坐Lyft去机场。Lyft是近年流行的群众外包型出租车,司机们为了评分高,大多会预备些水,口香糖和各种充电器备用。我们打到的这辆更不得了,整个是蝙蝠侠主题的。车里摆了若干蝙蝠侠他老人家的模型,座椅背后有漫画,甚至靠枕背后的电视还在连续播放蝙蝠侠的卡通。后座上放了几个蝙蝠侠面具,见我们没在拍照,司机不无失望的说“还没有人不在这车里照过相呢”,于是我们为了不让他伤心勉强合照了一张。

一个半小时的航程十分轻松,到酒店放下东西就要和其他同伴回合。酒店是个三星级别的度假村,不豪华,倒实在,可价格也不便宜。在国外很想念国内的酒店,即使是北京上海的四星级酒店也比这边的三星便宜,而且设施好太多了。到加州大学附近的酒吧区,在暖暖的夜风下小喝一杯,扯扯八卦,也就回去洗洗睡了。

day 1

第二天早上起来天空灰蒙蒙的,还以为和旧金山一样只是早上有雾,原来它真的是阴天。南加州的阴天像伦敦的晴天一样少见,连赶上两天真应该是人品烂到家了。

同住的Robin小妞早已起床,这会儿正施施然在一个小喷泉旁边喝咖啡边看书。Robin是个有一头红金色微卷发的九零后,小小年纪见闻很广,读书多,小时候在中国住过,还似乎加入过少先队,戴了个红领巾回家把她爸妈吓一跟头。性格随和做事又靠谱,还很爱说笑,是个好姑娘。

无论如何还是去了海滩,冒着丝丝小雨吃了分量巨大的早餐,去海滩旁边的小型游乐场玩了过山车,并最终豁出去下海游了泳。去的是太平洋海滩,沙滩并不细,倒不硌脚,可惜因为阴天海也是灰色的,水里有巨大的水草,和加勒比海妖艳的蓝绿色海水有些落差。

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但即使抱着豁出去的心情,不到三点也没劲玩儿了。于是回到酒店,找到热水池,在细雨中泡了一个小时,终于到了晚饭时间。晚上到市中心Gaslamp(煤气灯?)地区吃点儿taco,去个地下酒吧听听爵士乐。和同去的同事Robin不约而同的穿了橘红色的裙子,在一个团队果然越来越有默契。煤气灯区晚上很热闹,十点了商店还开着,街上人也多,比旧金山热闹很多。

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day 2

最后一天,收拾好行李,出发去早餐。和圣地亚哥的土著兼同事J先生汇合, 一群人热热闹闹的吃了一顿早饭。

之后去圣地亚哥著名的海洋世界。本来是很开心的事,但是同事都说海洋公园虐待鲸鱼,就一直怀有罪恶感(其实人家已经改正了)。还好玩得还很开心,看海狮,虎鲸,水獭,白鲸,企鹅… 太阳也出来了,心情灿烂。

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可惜同事们并不想在这里呆到最后一分钟,还要去海边,还要去吃FISH TACO。到La Jolla Cove两个同事要下海游泳,我和另一个同事无聊之下走去栈桥,却意外看到了小海豹睡满了一沙滩,真是萌到家了。

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最后一刻太阳终于露了一小脸,准时赶到了又现代又干净的圣地亚哥机场,拖着小箱子回了家。冰箱上多了一块海洋世界的磁铁,和朋友一起玩儿很开心,但能睡回自己熟悉的枕头才安心。

坎昆热浪

Cancun机场的候机区,人人都拿了印有Cancun字样的沙滩包,晒得或黑或红。有擦皮鞋的人背着工具箱在人群中寻觅生意,但触目所及所有人都穿着凉拖,在这海滨旅游圣地做擦鞋的生意还真是让人琢磨不透。

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在这里五天,炽热阳光,碧蓝海水,奶白沙滩,或温柔或强劲的海风,粘在身上的盐粒和细沙,弥漫在空气中淡淡海腥味和防晒霜的味道,墨西哥人黝黑的皮肤,都是这里的标识。

酒店位置很好,从阳台往外看是一片无与伦比的白沙滩,由浅到深的蓝色随着白色海浪在波动。设施略显陈旧,镜框角落有锈迹,柜子上的油漆也有些剥落,房间里的潮气让我想起小时候夏天和爷爷奶奶住在青岛的时光。室外布置的倒很棒,泳池,沙滩,随处有躺椅和伞,和我想像中的加勒比海滩一模一样。

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女生们都穿着比基尼走来走去,胸大腿长的美女随处可见,但小腹平坦的极少。沙滩躺椅上满是是想(或者已经)晒出一身古铜的男女,戴着墨镜躺在猛烈的阳光下。别看阳光强,一片云过来很可能就有雨滴落下。

坐小巴去酒店路边第一次露出海滩的时候,全车人都大声惊叹起来。加勒比海的蓝比别处见过的都要清澈,水浅处一望到底的碧绿,和深处泛着细细白浪的宝石蓝,加上岸边摇曳的椰子树,谁不会爱上这样的美景。本人水性很弱,但也抵抗不住那浅蓝色的诱惑,跑进海里游泳。随着波浪晃荡的感觉很妙,太久没在海里游泳,忘了海水的滋味,偶尔有个大浪从身后打来,满嘴苦涩和咸,这味道可并没有因为海水的清澈而变好一些。海盐粘在身上被海风吹干,会使皮肤变得粗糙,但却有种自然的爽快。

除了游泳晒太阳,还去学潜水。先看录像,再由教练带领在游泳池练习。腰间戴上增加重量的石块,穿上救生衣,戴上脚蹼,背上非常沉重的氧气罐。戴上潜水镜,咬住氧气出口,向前一大步跃入池中。练习手势,看表,换氧气嘴,仰头去除潜水镜里的水雾。再游到深一点的池子里练习下潜。大概练好以后,一群人坐船到更远的海域真枪实弹的潜水。我的小组的领队是个矮矮胖胖上了点年纪的墨西哥人,眉毛很浓,看起来凶巴巴。我在没潜到一半就因为压力没调好而耳中剧痛,顿时心慌了。领队示范着用鼻子放气调整压力,满满的潜到十米处。心里还是很慌,水下又不如水上光线充足,周围一片冷色,并不像我想像中的那样色彩鲜明(那是在水族缸里吧!),耳里还是不舒服,加上又一片寂静,不小心在放气时吸了一口水回去,当时立刻惊到想游回水面。幸亏向导过来抓住我的手,示范调整呼吸,我才平静了一点。大概是看我这么弱,他一直在我身边带着我游。游过珊瑚,安置在水中的奇怪雕像,看到大群大群五颜六色的热带鱼,一条大眼睛长得像多莉的鱼警惕的看着我,好像在说:你在这儿干嘛!继续前游,看到小海龟悠闲的游过,大家都很雀跃。还有一碰就会缩起来的海胆类生物,和长嘴长条奇怪的鱼。我想我平时还是和水接触太少,因为水压的关系一路心情都非常忐忑,不停在啊水下世界太美了太新鲜了啊啊我不会就这么挂了吧两个想法间徘徊,真是没出息极了。当领队把我们带回梯子回到水上时,我终于如释重负,一边检讨自己的不淡定,一边庆幸获得了这可贵的经历。下次还去!船只快速开过万顷碧波,穿过水中的小丛林(感觉好像life of pi), 感觉好极了。

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三藩平时太冷,一柜子夏天的裙子短裤凉鞋毫无用武之处。这次虽然只带了个小小的箱子,却臭美打了五六条小裙子若干短裤,恨不得每天换三身。买回来就没机会穿的水绿色长纱裙,几次想处理掉却没舍得,终于等到了它的闪光时刻。

有了潜水压力在前,浮潜就轻松多了。穿着救生衣,戴着潜水镜,在水下自由的游来游去。导游不太会说英语,当我问他要眼镜的防雾剂时,他跟我说了一个字儿:spit,于是我很爷们儿的的往眼镜里吐了两口吐沫抹开了,还真管用。浮潜是在一个游客相对较少的海滩,海水依然蓝的清澈。坐着小船从岸边开出去十几分钟,跳下水,跟着导游找珊瑚和鱼群。紫色珊瑚,绿色水草,大片各种颜色各种形状的鱼群,偶尔有海龟游过。潜了两次,还觉得没够。回到岸上遇上几只巨大的海鸟,像是小学课文里学过的鸬鹚,虽然一副戒备的神情,走近了倒也不怕人。午饭在海边沙滩上的一家小店解决,桌椅都在软沙里,上面有草和树叶扎成的凉棚。吃一条简单烹饪的鱼,喝玻璃瓶装的墨西哥可乐,有吉他手,大麻贩子和卖水果的人挨桌来找生意,但似乎效果欠佳。

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白天都出去游玩随便填饱肚子,晚上吃的好一点。海边自然要吃海鲜。烤海鲜拼盘味道寡淡,倒是某天晚上的石蟹特别出色,钳子里的肉质细嫩甜滑,令人欲罢不能。这里餐厅的服务殷勤周到,价格却不菲,大概是吃定了人们在度假时也懒得计较几顿吃喝,能宰便宰了。

以前在厦门尝试过坐摩托艇,觉得过瘾,这次还想再尝试。只不过上次是坐在后座,这次自己骑。开始还忐忑不敢放开,后来发现其实它的平衡力很好,要翻船也不容易,即使翻了也有救生衣,就加大油门可劲儿的骑。太阳照着,水花打湿头发,水面如此辽阔,只有自己开过留下的层层白浪,心中充满乘风破浪会有时的豪迈感。

机场附近还有个海豚公园,可以去近距离跟海豚玩耍。六七个人一组和两只海豚互动,一起游一游泳,或者和海豚互相泼水。它们身上十分光滑,特别好摸,最过瘾的是可以伸手抓住海豚让它们带着游一段。看起来它们在公园里挺快乐的,不知道训练得是否也很艰辛。海豚公园不许照相,有摄影师负责照相且收费极其昂贵,印象不佳。之后跑到隔壁的水上乐园,抱了个大游泳圈,玩漂流和冲浪池,但没敢上水滑梯。以前不知道为什么旁边就是大海大家还要在酒店游泳池和水上乐园玩,现在明白海水实在太咸,不小心进了眼耳口鼻都太难受,只适合欣赏游泳而不适合嬉戏。

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旅游胜地的酒店区,自然风景极妙,却多少缺了本土文化风情。路上除了游客,就只有下了班穿着制服等公车的酒店员工,和卖力兜售夜店门票的票贩。这里几间有名的夜店,到了晚上人声鼎沸,本来也想去凑热闹,后来却宁可在酒店里的露天酒吧喝杯pina colada。晚风习习,安静的音乐和阵阵海浪声,除了蚊子的打扰一切都好。

每天都穿着泳装,即使擦了防晒霜,泳装部分与周围的皮肤颜色已经界限分明到令人发指。每天醒来都面对美到令人叹息的大海,每天游泳,每天到处跑,每天都有全新的活动和体验,但从第四天起就觉得忐忑。我不是工作狂,却觉得是否该查工作邮件,又担心项目的进程。此地终究太美到不接地气,适合休假而不宜久留。第五天回到三藩,良辰美景记在心底,对脚踏实地的生活也多了一分感激。

玻璃之城

转眼又回到旧金山了。

坐车从公司回家的时候,不由得又想起伦敦。我住得那条有枫树和银杏的街,坐2路公车去上班,24路去中国城或SOHO吃饭,11路去利物浦街夜宵,坐district线地铁去博物馆或音乐厅,维多利亚线去火车站,走路去听大本钟报时, 去特拉法加广场的美术馆看鲁本斯拉斐尔米开朗基罗特纳提香莫奈或梵高,过河去滑铁卢逛书摊发呆,去Somerset House看时装展,去Fortnum & Mason喝下午茶,去圣马丁教堂听音乐会,去牛津街血拼,去东伦敦看手工艺展或者买醉,去Shard 39层就着伦敦塔吃个午饭,去Heron Tower 40层喝杯香槟,去Daunt书店看一本小说,去苏富比看一场拍卖,去west end看一出音乐剧,或者去海德公园坐旋转木马喝红酒,夜晚穿过St James公园的小桥回家,看河上成群的鸭子和天鹅,还有倒映水中蓝色的伦敦眼…

每个人心里都有一座除家乡以的梦想城市。以前我以为我会爱香港或者纽约更多,但现在却觉得我最爱伦敦,从来没有一座城市让就算我一个人每天也能过的如此精彩。

London Journal – Nov 28 (Book Market & Mozart)

Thanksgiving in the US means my extra days off in London. This year I’m thankful that I’m not in the states during Thanksgiving. It’s a dreadful holiday day where nothing opens and lucky people whose family are in the same continent all go home, leaving me on my own, reflecting on why the hell I am in a strange country all by myself.  But in London, it can actually be a fun day. 

Around noon I took the No.24 bus to Chinatown. It turns out taking 24 during the day was a mistake. It barely moved at all on Whitehall given the massive tourist traffic, and I could have arrived Leicester Square sooner on foot. As an adventure I picked a Hong Kong style diner that I haven’t tried before, but it also turned out to a disappointment. 

Afterwards I ventured to Waterloo via tube (Hah, can’t escape Waterloo can I). There’s a lovely 2nd hand book market on Southbank. Under the Waterloo bridge, there are several long tables with tons and tons of books on them. 4, 5 sellers scattered at the end of these tables, chatting or reading beside huge empty book cases. Most books aren’t organized in any particular order, so you’d have to browse through them one by one. Prices are very reasonable. There are a few rare books, some are even over 200 years old, but only casually wrapped in plastic for protection. Many first edition of Penguin classics are from the early-mid 20th centuries, and a wide selection of old maps/prints between late 19th century to early 20th century are available at the end. Picked up an English history book, a novel, and a piano music sheet for around 8 pounds; a 1907 hand colored print of Hyde Park autumn for 20. Not bad at all! The pages in these books are yellow and fragile, but I love the old fashioned typesetting and font.

It was almost dark after I paid for my latest acquisition, so I started walking home through the Christmas market on Southbank. Christmas markets were originated in Germany. A month before Christmas, many streets would start building temporary markets with cute little cabins (usually decorated in pine branches and sparkly lights), selling everything that’s slightly related to Christmas. Lights, candles, spices, decorations, ornaments, jewelry, souvenirs, oil paintings and even soaps. There are also food stalls, German sausages, roasted chestnuts, hot ciders and mulled wine formed a delicious festive smell in the air, complimenting the atmosphere of the market. Things at these markets are usually hugely overpriced (especially food and drinks), but it doesn’t stop them from getting more popular all over Europe. The Christmas markets in London are more grand than ever. Winter Wonderland in Hyde Park even had an entire Bavaria village built from scratch, with numerous food stands and huge beer garden inside. It was very impressive as it mimicked almost exactly what I saw in Munich.  Here in Southbank, the little wooden cabins are sparkling with Christmas light. In the background, Silent Night is played gently, River Thames flows as it does for thousands of years, Big Ben is standing across the river in dim yellow light, the London Eye is calmly rotating just a few steps ahead of the market. People’s faces are lit by candle lights, all looking rather happy. During this time of the year when the sun sets at 4 and the air is cold, perhaps people need a holiday to celebrate or simply to look forward to so the days are less dull. 

At around 7pm I wandered to St Martin in the Fields at Trafalgar Square for an evening concert. This is a church dated back to the medieval times which has gone through many reconstruction. The Neo Classical building we are seeing today was built in 18th century. It’s most famous for its music. There are free lunch concerts on every weekday, chamber orchestra at evenings and all sorts of other music events such as Jazz nights, piano recital, etc. Recordings of Academy of St Martin in the Fields are sold internationally. Tonight the chamber orchestra, choir and 4 opera singers are performing Mozart’s The Requiem Mass in D Minor. As the performance starts, the light was turned down, candles were lit, a perfect atmosphere for Requiem. The Requiem is very well known thanks to the movie Amadeus, but it was my first time to listen to it in full. It was an exceptional piece, I especially enjoyed the Choir’s singing. In the first half they’ve also played some other lovely pieces by Mozart and Verdi. The Requiem was played in the 2nd half. It was more a rather dramatic piece, but also very long. Some of us were holding our breadth between movements, while others (like the gentleman behind me) were falling asleep. I can totally sympathize with them though. Imagine you are forced to put on some decent clothes, dragged to a church by your date or wife, sitting on an uncomfortable bench with partial view to the orchestra, listening to the Tenor singing in some foreign language… It wouldn’t be very easy to stay awake would it. 

 

 

London Journal – Nov 14/15th

Clear sky and golden leaves in November, how can one get tired of looking at them?

The days are bright under high pressure, but the temperature has finally dropped to single digits. Overnight, the ginkgo trees seem to have shed half of their leaves. It’s still beautiful in a more tragic way. Putting on a thick trench coat, wrapping myself in grandpa’s old scarf, keeping my hands in the pocket, and taking a deep breath of this crispy air. The winter is finally coming, and I need to stock up on some vitamin D.

There’s one restaurant that’s been particularly trendy in London. The name is clear and concise: Burger & Lobster.

There’s no menu, only three dishes are served: Burger, lobster and lobster roll.

For 20 pounds each, it doesn’t take a genius to figure which is the most popular one.

In a city like London where a depressing plate of salad can easily cost 10 pounds, a meal of lobster, salad and fries for 20 pounds is truly a steal. Thus it’s not surprising that this place has become enormously popular, and has expanded to 4, 5 branches in London. I tried to go to the Soho branch once and the queue was 2.5 hours at 5pm. A little too ridiculous even for this crazy foodie. Today we chose the Farringdon branch. It had a 20 minute wait at 7:45, and there’s a nice bar area to wait about. Not bad at all.

The lobster was very fresh. You can get it steamed or grilled. The steamed version with a dash of lemon juice and a light cider was absolutely heavenly.

The little bakery near work was unusually busy at lunch time, but I managed to get a spot. It was pleasant to read Hemingway’s Moveable Feast while devouring a cinnamon bun. It’s a journal about his early years in Paris, has some very interesting insights of his famous friends, such as Gertrude Stein and F. Scott Fitzgerald. There’s nothing too heavy in the book (so far). It’s utterly honest, but not vicious, and thoroughly enjoyable.

There are more and more challenges at work as my project progresses. Some people like pacing when they get stuck. For me, I crave for things to snack on. A few slices of dried mango, an apple, half bag of crisps, it’s a blessing and a curse to have a fully stocked kitchen at work.

The news has reported that another London cyclist got hit by a bus and died earlier this morning. This is the 5th cyclist death in 9 days. Obviously some roads were not designed wisely, but London bus drivers really do drive like they are on racing tracks.  I fear for my life every time I step down the stairs from a double deck bus, and it’s not unusual that passengers get thrown from one side to another because the bus started so abruptly. Patience is never Londoner’s strong suit.

But I love the city, nonetheless.

(My first attempt to write a blog entry in English, just to practice a little. Please bear with the bad writings).

伦敦日志 – Nov 10 (Remembrance Sunday)

上午11点,大本钟肃穆的钟声刚过,一声炮响。

整条街安静到一阵风吹过树叶的声音都清晰可闻。

长长的Whitehall两边挤满了人,在这繁忙城市平日数一数二最繁忙的街上,这两分钟里,却无声无息。

两分钟过后又一声炮响,女王着一身黑衣别着小红花向战争纪念碑献上花圈。每年11月11日之前一个星期天的11点,在这里都会举行这个仪式,来纪念两次世界大战以及之后各种战争中牺牲的人。

whitehall离家很近,九点多久和高中同学一起来凑热闹。靠近路边的地方早就站满了人,于是我们爬到栏杆上坐着,才勉强在高大的英国人群中露出了脑袋。十点多各个军团开始入场,戴着各种各样高大的帽子站在路的两侧,让本来已经拼命伸长脖子看的群众看得更加费劲。女王出现的时候现场也很安静,大家只是默默的举起了相机一阵狂拍,然后她老人家的身影就被淹没在一片大熊皮帽子里。女王率领一家老小上前献花, 凯特王妃在楼上观礼,此情此景,伦敦独有。

这几个星期英国人纷纷别上红花瓣黑芯的poppy,以示勿忘国殇。这传统在加拿大和澳大利亚也有,但据说小花略有不同,规模比较小,在伦敦这些传统似乎总是更受重视。在滑铁卢的时候university ave上有一座纪念碑,十一月时也会被放上花圈, Tim Hortons什么的也会发小红花。

女王献过花以后,伦敦的主教带领大家说祈祷词。虽然并不是教徒,却很喜欢听祷告,喜欢那一刻不由自主的单纯平静。在这个晴朗的秋日,几万个由各处来观礼的人一起低声念:

Forgive us our trespasses
As we forgive them that trespass against us
And lead us no into temptation
But deliver us from evil
For thine is the kingdom
The power and the glory
For ever and ever. Amen

烈士家属们和各个军的老兵列队献花,身穿各种各样的军服,佩戴着一排排的勋章,很多坐着轮椅。之后整个下午Whitehall各处(尤其是小酒吧里)都充斥着他们的身影。

在栏杆上坐了三个小时,冻得直哆嗦,之后直奔中国城吃火锅。 五个人25道菜涮一锅,吃到走不动道,但味道其实一般。沾了一身火锅味,觉得连头发都是油的。 天黑的越来越早,四点多太阳就消失了,回家的时候看到一队穿着苏格兰裙的老兵列队而过,有苏格兰风笛相伴,也有警车开道。越来越爱听风笛声,于是跟着他们走了一段。

晚上跟着佩珊去一个小酒吧看球,结果只看了个结尾,阿森纳输了一球,但热Cider很好喝!

金色维也纳 – Day 2

维也纳第二日

10.14

婧婧一大早就跟爸妈回国了,我则多呆一天,退了房,行李寄存好,挎上包和相机自己在维也纳流浪。

早餐没出息的去了麦当当。服务员英语烂态度差,但鸡肉早餐包好挺好吃,欧洲麦当当的咖啡也比较好喝。

先去了城市公园。里面施特劳斯金色的塑像很有名(俗称小金人),本来贯穿整个公园的大水渠不知何故完全干了,剩下光秃秃的河床。可能是我被伦敦纽约的那些大公园宠坏了,觉得它纵然可爱,却没什么可圈可点之处,并不需要特别前往。

艺术史博物馆礼拜一休息,只好改计划去了albertina美术馆。据说它馆藏十分丰富,但只展出了小部分,且现代画作居多,大多都让我理解不能。特别展览是Matisse和野兽派,二十世纪初兴起的风格,着重色彩和类似印象派的表达,但对我来说有点过于粗糙了。门票不便宜,展出作品却这么少,幸好这个建筑本身是某贵族的宅子,有些漂亮房间是开放展出的,还可以听皇室八卦,总算稍微值回票价。

逛完美术馆,转弯到街对面婧婧推荐的拍卖行转转,正好有下星期拍卖的预展。里面出人意料的好!几层楼满满都是拍卖的物品,按类别分开展示,上面有编号和估价。油画非常多,年代从十六世纪到十九世纪都有,价格也相差很大。有些看上去很不错的画作,要是有房子真想买回去做装饰。还有诸多银器,瓷器,饰品,还有少量家具。最让我流连的是珠宝,数目非常可观的钻石,成色好但款式老的蓝宝石和祖母绿,天然珍珠的饰品,有些估价并不贵,好想买一两件,可惜等不到拍卖会。唉,年纪大了就是会被亮闪闪的宝石吸引,小时候觉得这些都俗透了。来看预展的大多数都是时髦老太太,两三个结伴,通常都品味很好,这么有尊严有乐趣的老去也不错。

恋恋不舍的从拍卖行出来,就又走到了皇宫。本来想看看西西公主博物馆,翻了翻册子觉得似乎没太大意思,也走累了,就溜进旁边的咖啡厅,享受蛋糕,茶和免费WI-FI。服务很不错,点的“莫扎特”蛋糕味道很好。

从皇宫旁边的大道走回喷泉广场。此时阳光普照,人也变得懒洋洋。维也纳老城的街道比伦敦宽阔好多,也没那么拥挤,放慢脚步,看看钢琴店的橱窗,张望一下酒店里的餐厅酒廊,磨蹭好久才回到那大喷泉那儿。

旁边有个老人在拉手风琴,琴声悠扬,曲调熟悉。于是坐下,晒着太阳听完一曲,放下枚硬币再继续走我的路。

再往前就走回了离公寓不远的美景宫。美景宫是哈布斯家族欧根亲王的夏宫,巴洛克风格。欧根亲王死后几经辗转又由著名的女皇玛利亚特里萨买回皇室手中,但并没有人居住,唯一的辉煌记录是皇室为了庆祝一位公主的大婚而举行的盛大假面舞会,邀请了一万六千名宾客。这位公主就是嫁给了后来法国国王路易十六的玛丽安东尼奥,她后来的命运家喻户晓。十八世纪改成了美术馆。

本来期待不高,但进去以后反而觉得很好。

前后对应着有两个楼,大的上宫和小的下宫。中间是花园,风格和美泉宫类似,只是规模小很多。也是对称的几何图形,旁边有小迷宫,树都被修建成圆形,方形,梯形或圆锥形。喷泉更多。最美的还是树的颜色,金黄翠绿与深红交织在一起,本身就有诗情画意。

我从下宫进去,相当于后门。虽说比美泉宫小,但还是相当壮观的一个大花园,里面人不多,比美泉宫更宁静秀丽,良辰美景仿佛被我独占,更对它好感加倍。

上宫里面改成了美术馆,收藏了很多十九世纪的画作,新古典主义和浪漫主义居多,印象派和现实派也不少,还有一些中世纪和现代的画作,很合我口味。最有名的当然是Klimt的《吻》。

二层的大理石大厅非常壮观,每一处都有雕饰和壁画,拱形的天花板上水晶大吊灯华美非常,身后的窗子可以俯瞰整个花园。有趣的是为了方便游人看顶上的绘画,地上摆了很多球形的沙发椅,震撼之余又多了一丝人情味。其实单说奢华程度远远不如白金汉宫,但有豪华也有简单,再加上人少,让人觉得宽松舒适很多。

看完画作穿过花园回去,斜阳懒懒的躲在云后,空中有淡淡的雾,但仍然透着蓝,空气冷脆,但光却暖,再看着红色的爬墙虎,不知怎么觉得和《故都的秋》里描绘的相仿。很多旅游手册都没有把美景宫放在维也纳必须游览的景点,可是它有大花园可以逛,有各种风格的画可看,美丽的建筑可以品味,游人也少很多,是我个人的最爱。

出了美景宫,去导游婧婧给我推荐的店吃维也纳名菜炸肉排。之前看介绍说这道菜是肉排浸上蛋液裹上面包屑煎炸而成,心想这不就是咱奶奶的拿手菜么,什么时候成了维也纳国菜了。味道还是非常不错的,点了炸小羊排,肉质嫩且没有膻味。旁边一个老奶奶独自坐在那里,是这里的熟客,行动很迟缓,侍者待她很殷勤。来接班的小伙子一进来先跟她打招呼,累了的女服务员会挨着她旁边亲昵的坐下,像跟自己家人一样撒一下娇。我的侍者说她几乎每天都来,快十六年了,下午点一道菜,喝两杯啤酒,然后慢慢地回家。之前听婧婧说奥地利这种老太太特别多,大多每天去固定的咖啡馆坐一坐,都跟侍者很熟。为什么都是老太太呢?因为女人平均寿命长呗!

吃完了也该告别维也纳了。 取了行李,楼下就是可以去机场的轻轨。再次大赞婧婧同学找房子的靠谱!

到得早了,需要等一会儿。维也纳机场设施还不错,有免费网络。顺利登机,回伦敦咯!此行十分美好,而且我一点功课都没有做,全靠地头蛇JJJ,真幸福。

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